I didn't realize there was a forum so to repeat:
I just transferred from my school in New Jersey to University of Hawaii. I have a place right off of Waikiki, and my aunt bought be a brand new surfboard as a gift. School has got me totally burnt out and busting my butt, leaving me a shell of a person by the time I get home. In every sense of the word I've neglected my board. I want to change that. I've never surfed before I came here. I've been here about a month and a half now and I've only gone 4 times. Not enough! My mission is to go surfing at least every other day.
These are the problems that I need to overcome:
1.Japanese Class every morning has got me by the you know what. I have it at 8:30 every day except Thursday. So right off the bat I need to change my sleep schedule: Being in bed by midnight is something I'll have to start. As a night owl at home (I would usually be in bed by the time my father was going to work and sleep all day - 6-8am usually), I was hoping my sleep schedule would even out with the 6 hour time difference. It did for a little bit, but now I'm getting back to my old ways. But this is mainly due to my next problem.
2. The seemingly endless amount of work I have. While I am only taking 13 credits, the homework being pumped out is coming faster than even a master procrastinator like my self can handle. I need to break my procrastination habit. I may work on something days earlier every now and then, but then reward myself by not even thinking about doing it for the next few days. This must stop. Between the Japanese class I mentioned before and my next class I have a 3 hour break. Because I never feel like sticking around I come home usually and just hang out. This part has me conflicted. Should I continue coming home, and use this time to surf? The problem with that being I am usually extremely tired at this point. The other option would be to grab a bite at school to get some energy and then work on my homework at the library. This is definitely not a bad option, but the problem with this is I won't be back until 2 o'clock everyday except for Tuesday and Thursday, and on Tuesday and Thursday I won't be back until 5 o'clock - too late to surf.
Writing this out makes me see this cycle I'm in. I suppose the best option is to go to the library and get my work done during my break time, that way I can at least surf every other afternoon on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and then I can go on the weekends whenever it's convenient. Eventually I would like to be going really early in the morning so I can go everyday - but baby steps for now.
Well I suppose I'll start doing my homework now. I eat well and exercise regularly so I'm not too worried about those factors. I'll let you know how I do, and if I run into any roadblocks maybe you can help me work them out. Let me know what you think, I'm all ears (eyes?). Thanks![/i]
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Oh and when I say I come home during my break and just hang out - I usually just nap because I'm totally out of it.
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okay so last night i got some crappy sleep. I woke up at 1am and stayed up til 430 doin homework so its not too bad. Almost missed class though! The awesome news is I'm changing my major, and I didnt realize I could drop this one class that's been real tough. What's really cool is that it's my latest class, making the latest I get out of class 1:30 instead of 5:40 aka more time to surf! Now I can surf every day of the week pretty much, so starting tomorrow I'm gonna go. Huzzah!! So I guess my goal is to go at least 15 times out of the next 30 days. Day one tomorrow! Booyah baby!
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oh yea I guess todays goal: buy some wax and get to sleep by midnight
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hey so right after i wrote my last one i said screw it and just went so day 1 was today!
i've got the hang of popping up now, i even stood up when i was stationary so I think my balance is in check.
My main problem now seems to be just getting some speed. i watched the other surfers and they seem to just cruise fairly effortlessly through the water, but unless the wave was real big I just couldnt get the momentum right - i felt like i was just kind of squirming around until the wave hit. I have a 7' 4, which isn't really what a beginner is supposed to to use, it seems like the longboards are a lot easier to use, but its a good size anyway. I think maybe I have to develop my back muscles a bit more and it will become easier. I forgot to get wax so that should make things nicer tomorrow. Man am I sore though! I think that when I was paddling back I sort of got the hang of how you get speed, i just needed a little more effort than I had thought, so I'll take some whey protein tonight so my shoulders and back recover faster so the paddling will become easier. So right now that's my main hurdle - getting speed. I need some new trunks too! I've got some serious chafing goin on so I gotta get some shorts that have a mesh guard or somethin like that. Above all I feel awesome and I'm in no way discouraged. I'll catch that wave if it's the last thing I do. I did good today! I was out for there for 4 hours bustin my butt, my muscles are so sore (which rules), I have a nice tan, and I did the best I could. Maybe tomorrow I'll nail it.
so as I stand i have 1 of 30 with the least i can do being 15. tomorrow will definitely be number 2. I'm gonna get some grub! break a leg everyone!
i've got the hang of popping up now, i even stood up when i was stationary so I think my balance is in check.
My main problem now seems to be just getting some speed. i watched the other surfers and they seem to just cruise fairly effortlessly through the water, but unless the wave was real big I just couldnt get the momentum right - i felt like i was just kind of squirming around until the wave hit. I have a 7' 4, which isn't really what a beginner is supposed to to use, it seems like the longboards are a lot easier to use, but its a good size anyway. I think maybe I have to develop my back muscles a bit more and it will become easier. I forgot to get wax so that should make things nicer tomorrow. Man am I sore though! I think that when I was paddling back I sort of got the hang of how you get speed, i just needed a little more effort than I had thought, so I'll take some whey protein tonight so my shoulders and back recover faster so the paddling will become easier. So right now that's my main hurdle - getting speed. I need some new trunks too! I've got some serious chafing goin on so I gotta get some shorts that have a mesh guard or somethin like that. Above all I feel awesome and I'm in no way discouraged. I'll catch that wave if it's the last thing I do. I did good today! I was out for there for 4 hours bustin my butt, my muscles are so sore (which rules), I have a nice tan, and I did the best I could. Maybe tomorrow I'll nail it.
so as I stand i have 1 of 30 with the least i can do being 15. tomorrow will definitely be number 2. I'm gonna get some grub! break a leg everyone!
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so i got to sleep at like 12:30, not worried about that. i'm sooo sore though. im gonna rock some advil and some more whey and hopefully i'll feel better by this afternoon. gotta pick up some wax and some shorts. i watched this video on paddling on videojug.com and i think i know what i was doing wrong now (not bringing my arms close enough to the side and then my lack of wax i think created a reverse kind of propeller from the shaking of my board when moving my arms. also i need to watch how hard i gyrate my shoulders which increases the shaking) ok i got class, let ya know how it goes.
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ok so went out for about an hour and a half today. its intimidating because you see the experienced surfers and you know they know you're a guppy, and you dont want to get in their way so i stayed outside of the better breaks. i shouldnt do that. i dont care what people think, but some of the locals are real touchy about the whole thing. So i waxed the crap out of my board today, but i'm still not getting the speed i want/need. i realized its definitely not my body (although i definitely could use some more muscle endurance, especially on my shoulders and upper back), but my technique - this became apparent when i was attempting to catch a wave and spotted a sand shark bob up dead ahead of me... i dont think i could have paddled harder and i still didn't get too far. so im sad to say this post comes with a bit of discouragement... although i did try hard and my body is still extremely sore, now so even more. However this will pass. I'm very determined, and I know i'll get it... just seeing little kids fly past you while you're squirming around is a bit belittling. i think tomorrow i'll take a break so that my body can rehabilitate and then go back on friday, but i'll go for a run at least to keep my endurance up. also i'm going to sign up for a lesson for friday - those dudes definitely can tell me what the deal is. i mean i see them teach people to get up in like an hour. so that's what's up. if anyone surfs and has any pointers i'd love to hear it.
as i stand: 2 of 15/30. food time! good luck everyone!
as i stand: 2 of 15/30. food time! good luck everyone!
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So do u feel like a surfer dude yet?
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um. not exactly. i mean im from new jersey i dont think i could ever mellow out that much. however yesterday i caught my first wave and im just waaaaaay pumped now. i said before i thought it was my technique - i was only half way right. the muscle endurance you build is crazy after a few times of going, i mean getting speed now is sooooo much easier just because i let my body recover. i feel im pretty much progressing as fast as i had with snowboarding, pretty much getting better everytime i go, and as i go more i find myself enjoying it more because i can see instant feedback and then correct it, and making headway like that is an awesome feeling. im thinking after these fifteen days it'll be like a season of snowboarding, so i can progress pretty fast if i keep this up. im gonna get some food than get head out in a little bit, im sure it's super crowded because it's saturday but whatevski.
so what am i now 3 or 4 of 15?
so what am i now 3 or 4 of 15?
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hangover+university of hawaii game = didn't surf today. tomorrow's lookin good though.
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oh yea i didnt get a lesson i just figured it out - aren't i cool!!!!
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feelin sick today and have to study for japanese. still got time to accomplish it. have to have to have to go tomorrow though i dont wanna lose any muscle endurance.
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didn't go yesterday, went today though. let's see - got some better balance, somethin i could always improve. caught another wave today and took it home. got yelled at by some local dude. really don't care though. its weird how the etiquette is the opposite of snowboarding, you got gotta watch out for people in front of you instead of comin at you when you're on the slopes. ill deal, im sure he will too i mean he's only on a surfboard in beautiful water. gonna eat some good food, tomorrow will rule hopefully.
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up late doin homework didn't get much sleep and passed out as soon as i got back from class couldn't help it. no class tomorrow (today?), i will go i promise goodnight
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today was awesome! caught a couple, startin to get a little funky with it, throwin my back and stuff into turns and stuff. i gotta say its gettin more and more fun each time i go. gotta eat some food though im starvin... speed is gettin easier and easier, my arm is killin me though! it feels like some one was punching me for the last hour or like if you had a bad day at the driving range. no biggie its feelin better i threw some ice on it. im a third of the way through now so i got 10 to go at least. wooord talk to ya tomorrow
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takin a break. goin to sandys tomorrow, should be awesome waves. dig it!
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sorry been real busy... yesterday was number 6.... got 14 days to go 9 times. doable. catchin a wave is real easy now i just gotta get balance down now so i can start carving in the water
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